To finish the Edwardian Undergarments ensemble, a proper little girl really needs a corset cover and a petticoat. American Girl made an 18″ sized pattern for these that you can download for free here. I drafted a 16″ version and a 14″ version so that the littlest girls don’t feel left out.
- 1/2 yd white lightweight cotton (I used cotton voile)
- 3 yds lace
- Insertion lace (optional)
- 8 buttons
2 bodice backs
1 bodice front
Sew the shoulder seams of the bodice. (1/4″ seam allowance)
Gather between dots at the neck on the bodice front.
Sew lace to the neck seam right sides together.
Turn the seam to the wrong side and top-stitch the lace down.
Sew the lace to the armhole seam, right sides together.
Turn and top-stitch the lace.
Sew the underarm seam, right sides together. (or sew a french seam and skip the next step.)
Zigzag or serge to finish the underarm seam.
Repeat with the other arm.
If you used insertion lace, thread the ribbon through now. Cut two pieces of 1/8″ wide ribbon about 10″ long. Find the center of the neck and start both pieces of ribbon at the center and thread it to the back of the bodice.
Hem the bodice back by turning under the edge 1/4″ once and then 1/4″ again. (If using insertion lace and ribbon, be sure to catch the edge of the ribbon in this seam.)
Iron the two waistbands in half along the fold line right sides together and fold one long side under ¼ inch and iron.
Sew the short sides of the waistbands, clip the corners, turn right side out.
Gather the bottom of the bodice between the dots.
Fit the gathers to one of the waistbands. Sew to the waistband. (only the non-folded long edge.) (the other waistband is for the petticoat.)
Turn the waistband right sides out, sandwich the seam into the waistband and top-stitch the waistband down.
Sew the buttons and buttonholes on the back. If you want, you can sew two buttons to the front of the bodice at the waistband, to connect the petticoat to. (not pictured here)
For the petticoat:
If making the 18″ doll version, sew the gusset to the two side pieces.
Finish the seams, either with a zigzag stitch or sew a french seam.
Sew the lace to the bottom hem, right sides together.
Using the tuck placement guide, mark and sew the tucks.
To sew a tuck: Fold the fabric wrong sides together at the middle line. Iron the fold. Sew 1/4″ from the edge of the fold (or 1/8″ for the smaller dolls).
Sew the back seam.
Zigzag stitch to finish the seam.
Fold the fabric under to make a placket at the top and sew.
Gather the top of the skirt and fit to the second waistband. Sew the skirt to one edge of the waistband. Turn the waistband right side out and catch the skirt seam in the waistband and top-stitch down.
Sew a button and button hole to the back.
If you want you can also sew two buttonholes in the front waistband of the skirt, matching the placement of the two buttons on the bodice. (not pictured here)
I think Samantha is a little jealous of Nellie’s pretty new lacey whites, don’t you?
If you didn’t use insertion lace on the bodice, you can hand sew a little bow to the front.